what are the most elegant sakes?

“A master of wine who is also an expert in sake once told me that the most elegant Japanese rice wines are defined by the absence of taste, the reverse of what one looks for in a claret or a Chardonnay. ‘Sake is about what’s not there. With wine it’s about what’s here. It’s like in speech. The pauses and the silences, the things that aren’t there give a hint of the meaning. The most elegant sakes are barely there at all.’”

– David Pilling

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